The frugalist

It is really a wonder how long you can travel with almost nothing with
you. I set out from Dubai to Kerala on May 1st with a backpack and
nothing in it save for 2 sets of clothes. No toothbrush, no razor,
nothing that I would normally carry with me. I left my credit cards
behind, and my business cards. No laptop, just a phone and its
charger.

Here I am on the 20th day of travel, and I've already shuttled between
Ernakulam, Thodupuzha, Calicut, Bangalore, Mangalore, Udupi, Mumbai,
Ahmedabad and Mundra. In all this time I've been home to Someshwar for
only one night, and I've changed my plans every night.

Along the way i have picked up a toothbrush, a razor, some shaving
foam and tied a lot of loose ends.

I still have only a backpack, and i still have not decided where I
need to be tomorrow.

2008-09-06, Ernakulam to Kozhikode

Train from Aluva, 01:50

Aluva station was quite desolate except for few other people waiting for the same train. Being Onam, I figured that the train would be quite full. 1.5 hours behind schedule, when it finally pulled into Aluva station, I realized I might not get to sit till Kozhikode.

When the train pulled in, the formerly desolate Aluva station sprang to fervent life, with people running from one compartment to the next of the 15 car train, trying to procure a seat. I didn't wait much I hopped on to the AC compartment, hoping someone would have left me a berth; no such luck. After being yelled at by the TTR for trawling throughout the AC section, I settled in at the feet of the AC car attendant - sitting on the bed he was sleeping on. I tucked my bags under this makeshift plank of a bed, and prepared for a long, sleepy journey to Kozhikode.

Just after Shornur, the TTR saw me sit-standing at the foot of the attendants bed and dozing, and decided to help me out. He issued me the berth of a guy that just got out, and thus, I made my other half journey to Kozhikode in great comfort.

I got to Kozhikode just past dawn, about an hour late. But then, time wasn't as critical to me as meeting my cousins, aunt and uncle. After spending some time with them and sharing an Onam lunch, I was on my way again, to the train station to go home to Vijee Farms.

Ernakulam

The trip from Kochi airport to Ernakulam went by in a state of deep sleep in the back of a taxi. The only thing I remember is that the trip took some time. I remember waking up a couple of times and looking at my dilapidated watch, wondering why the numbers still stayed the same.

My stay at my Aunt's house was really short. Just enough time for dinner and a shower. The only thing I did besides talk to her and pick up some stuff was look for the timing of the next train out of there.

Except for the two taxis that shuttled me to and from my aunt's house, I really didn't interact enough with Ernakulam to tap into its uniqueness. On the way to Aluva train station by taxi from my aunt's house, there was a pretty major incident. I am still debating about whether I want to write up about it here or on my other blog. It involves an accident out of which I helped free a man. I'm actually wondering if I should write about it at all.

A stranger's blood on my hands, I bought a ticket and waited on Platform 3 of Aluva station to catch my train to Kozhikode.

2008-09-05, Chennai to Kochi

2008-09-05 14:05, Paramount Airlines I7-435, MAA - COK

This is a very surprising entry. I bought a ticket to Kochi on Paramount airlines, because it was the lowest fare among all other airlines, and was the only airline to have direct flights at the time I required. My ticket was bought at their ticketing counter at Chennai airport. As I wheeled my bag inside the airport, I couldn't help but notice the tiny little shack that served as the check-in counter for this airline. I went to the counter, checked my bag and got my boarding card. 10 seconds later, I was shocked to see that the person taking my bag had to manually cart it over to their processing station - not even a conveyor belt. I was beginning to think the plane would be pushed off the parking spot by a handful of people as well.

That's when it hit me. I had actually checked in at a convenience kiosk of Paramount Airlines. One of three such kiosks scattered around the terminal, in addition to a fully functional check-in desk - with a baggage conveyor. Tucked behind my boarding card was a coupon for refreshments at the waiting area - the employee of the Coffee Day kiosk who redeemed my coupon for me apologized to me because the Paramount Airlines lounge wasn't ready to be opened after renovations.

The flight was on time, and the time from push-off to take-off was probably 7 minutes - a far cry from the 25 minutes at Dubai and 40 minutes at Amsterdam. Once airborne, I was treated to some Masala Sharbat (good old Indian Lemonade) - in a real glass. Meal service on the 1.5 hour flight started with a crew member opening the tray table and laying a table cloth over it, followed by a real cloth napkin. After a wonderful meal service with real cutlery and crockery (including warm soup), we were ready to descend.

Quick pass through Kochi airport, and I was on my way to my aunt's house. The speed through each airport was commendable. The underdog airline was memorable, and the weather in Kerala was amazing. I couldn't have asked for a better trip.

Chennai

Chennai is India's metro on the south of the peninsula. I've been traveling a bit now, and am a little less receptive to the subtleties of a place. Basically what I feel in Chennai is a faint familiarity. I've grown up around Tamilians, and know them to be warm and courteous people. The minute you step into Chennai, the power of cinema becomes immediately apparent. Tamilians are known to idolize their movie stars, and banners, posters and hoardings of these deities can be found all over Chennai. Auto rickshaws sport blaring music, next to the bicyclist pedalling around with a tape recorder taped to his handlebars. In addition to the film culture, Chennai is also a city that respects women. Women, like any place on Earth are sought after, but in Chennai, they seem to be less objectified.

When I came through Chennai airport, I was so tired, I hardly noticed it. Now that I think of it, that is probably a good thing. The airport wasn't built to be memorable - just a place to make transit easier. There were no complaints and no hassles encountered, and that I think makes the airport pretty good in my dictionary.

My trip to Chennai was because of a visit I needed to make to the American consulate. Even that seemed to go by without much thought on my part. I seem to remember being more anxious the first time I went there. Maybe with the passing of time, I take things more and more for granted. Maybe the only definite upside of the business at the consulate was that while I was waiting in line, I met a friend I had known since school.

Having completed my business in Chennai, it was time to move on.

2008-09-04, Delhi to Chennai

2008-09-04 19:15, JetLite S2251, DEL - MAA

This is a very weird flight to step into. Nothing about the airline, but when you prepare for this journey, you realize that you are traveling from the heart of North India to one of the far reaches of South India. The culture shock you can expect to experience trumps travelling between countries.

Delhi's domestic airport terminal, like most other Indian airports is better than its international counterpart. Facilities are well laid out and there is ample space and sitting area. There is no artificial sense of awe being instilled into the passenger. The reason a person has visited this building is to board an airplane, and this building does not try to convince the person otherwise.

The flight to Chennai was uneventful. Having fallen asleep slightly before takeoff, I missed most of the time spent inside the airplane. The crew was courteous and the aircraft was in good condition.

Chennai airport was a blur. I just wanted to fall asleep by this time, and that is what I did. 

Nothing more I can add.

Delhi

Delhi is the political capital of India, and this is my first time in it. My first thought when i stepped into the airport was, "Wow, is this it?". Somehow, for the capital of India where every other person is a VIP, I expected more opulence. Or maybe, I expected a little Dubai from the airport. But I liked it. The airport experience was simple and straightforward. There was no hassle of finding your way around or of wandering through unnecessary corporate advertisement. The building had a job, and it executed it with muted efficiency.

The first whiff of Delhi air was an incredibly humid and warm breath. And with that one breath, I understood why every western literary work refers to India as the hot humid place with snakes and tigers as company for evening walks. This air was very different from the cool crisp and clean air I am used to from Agumbe and Someshwar, but there was something definitely Indian about that first whiff, and that alone welcomed me home. My nostalgic moment was cut short when someone behind me on the flight stairs urged me to get a move on and get into the bus waiting to shuttle us from the the flight into the terminal. Obviously, someone else didn't like my memories blocking his way home.

Well that is India, and it is so evident in the queues that we form - there aren't any. Traffic lanes are a mere suggestion for the feeble drivers and a show and tell piece to convince foreigners. I love it.

I was picked up at the airport by my mother and my uncle and driven to this immense hotel in the midst of diplomatic Delhi (Chanakyapuri). Hotel Ashok is an over priced over indulgent 5 star establishment run by the Indian government, but it is the embodiment of Indian hospitality. Around every corner, there is someone to greet and welcome you into a cocoon of comfort.

The people of Delhi all look serious. More than that, they all have a sense of self importance. There is a feeling of pride that sweeps through the populace by just being in the Nation's capital city. But then, they are also friendly and polite people. While in Mumbai the people are more in your face, over here, everyone goes through a routine set of niceties before they engage in conversation. It all seems so quaint.

This is a city full of vehicles with diplomatic license plates; where ambulances and fire trucks have a hard time making their way, while VIPs in their stately Ambassadors get through with no problem. You can't really sight see in Delhi - you can only feel it.

Delhi is definitely a cosmopolitan city. Maybe less than Mumbai, but the city exudes an air of regal bearing, full of kitty parties and cocktail gatherings. While many Indian cities are dominated by the present, Delhi holds on to the past, savoring every bit of it like an aromatic tea. Sip by sip, the city convinces you that you are in an important place, and the crests and troughs of life must make way for the rich history of the city. Oh Wait - that's just the 17th VIP vehicle with its revolving red "make way" light.

2008-08-24, Dubai to Delhi

2008-08-24 22:20, Emirates EK512, DXB - DEL

This is where my positive feeling for an Emirates flight turns into an almost negative feeling.

Anyone traveling by an Emirates flight will tell you - you are constantly bombarded with advertising for Dubai, and are trapped in the never ending loop of commercial promotion. On a short enough flight like this, a large percentage of the flight is just bombardment, while I would have preferred peace and quiet.

Nevertheless, apart from the mental toll after a long journey, the physical comforts of the flights were splendid, and the food was delicious. I spent my time listening to my ipod and writing gibberish.

2008-08-24, Dubai International Airport

Dubai airport is a case study of architectural excess. It does what it is meant to - conveys the users of the airport a feeling of richness and magnificence. Well, all this is lost on me. Don't get me wrong, I do appreciate the feeling of awe that I am supposed to feel, and I also do not think that function is sacrificed for form in this airport, it just feels like, well - too much.

There is no need for the opulence in the decoration of this passenger hub, but somehow it feels well in place. My felling about this airport then is mixed - its a great airport, but shifts priorities away from the travel and onto the airport. Somehow, I cannot appreciate that. In addition to that, this airport is huge. I typically am awed by big airports and their logistics, but don't usually enjoy using them except if my journey itself is a long one.

Being at the tail end of an intercontinental flight then, I felt strangely acclimatised to the existence of this airport.

Though I was flying on a connecting flight, I chose to go through immigration in order to get my 6 moth residence visa stamp. When outside, I met my cousin and had some tea and talk before I submitted myself to the underbelly of the behemoth airport. I spent some time shopping at the duty free shops for alcohol and chocolates, and after that, quietly made my way to the next flight to Delhi.

2008-08-23, Houston to Dubai

2008-08-23 18:50, Emirates EK-212, IAH - DXB

Emirates as is the case most of the times, was on time for departure and with the assistance of some tail winds was quicker to reach Dubai as well. Being a long haul flight (14 hours), the crew was really friendly and I was even allowed to sit on one of the crew jump seats to finish up some project work for my independent study class.

The food in this flight is what I look forward to most. At the very least, you get fed - but the icing on the cake is the fact that the food is almost always flavoured in an Indian style, making it tasty on the palette, and brings back your appetite.

Another plus is the entertainment system - it is truly one of the best. So many movies, TV shows, Games and entertainment that you forget about how you can finish watching all of it before you land, and start thinking of which ones you want to watch. Well, thats what I did. I spent my first 15 minutes looking at what was available, and singling out prospective entertainers.

After about 4 hours into the flight I was bored with the movies and decided to catch some sleep. An hour later, I just went to the galley and started chatting it up with the crew. I asked them questions about the technical abilities of the flight. After my thirst for knowledge was satisfied, I just started talking. Anyone who knows me knows - I can converse for a while.

After about the 8th hour into the flight I was feeling glazed over, and any feelings were just imperceptible.

All in all, a very normal flight, with as much bodily comforts as an economy cabin could offer on a long haul flight.